Sloped and curved sites

Allow for smaller spacing between the divider forms on a steep slope. Make the forms out of ¼  or ½ inch plywood or hardboard, or 1 x 4s for a curved walkway or drive. To make 1 x 4s easier to bend, soak them in water. Set the supporting stakes closer together than the standard 3-foot distance for square edges. Build a small curb or dam at the sill if the reverse slope is so steep that there is a risk of water entering the building following the gutter scenario. If you’re working on a long slope, you might need more than one diversion point; place them about 30 feet apart. If the slope is long and curved, pitch it toward the shorter side at a rate of ¼ inch per foot.

Concreting along a wall

You can’t utilize the strike-off board, with or without the grips, across the width of a walk laid alongside a wall or building. Laying the concrete in alternate bays and compacting and leveling it with the strike-off board lengthwise between the end stops is one option. Insert a ½-inch-thick asphalt-impregnated fiber material strip into the formwork to form an expansion connection between the wall and the slab. Wherever the slab meets curbs, foundations, or steps, use one. To drain surface water, slope the walk away from the wall at a rate of ¼ inches per foot.

Make sure the divider forms are firmly in place while laying the first bays so they don’t wobble under the pressure of the concrete. Allow the concrete to be set before removing the divider forms and filling in the vacant bays. The side form can be removed once all of the concrete has been cured completely.

Casting slabs

Patios and walkways are usually good with casting slabs made at home. Typically, they are 2 inches thick. Make the formwork ½ inches deeper than the slab thickness to allow for a ½-inch sand bed on which to pour the concrete; this sand base will make it easier to remove the slabs after they’ve cured and hardened. Before pouring the concrete, wet the sand bed. Use a 1:2½:3½ air-entrained concrete mix. Fill forms with concrete, strike them off, and bull-float it. To round out the sides of the slabs, run an edger down the forms. To create a textured surface, use a wood float. After troweling, a stiff-bristled brush can be dragged over the concrete to create a rougher, skid-resistant surface.

Information sponsored by M3 Industries of St. George, UT.